Navigating the world of retro game collecting means dealing with everything from sealed treasures to battered cartridges. It doesn’t take long before you hear terms like “CIB,” “mint,” or “poor condition,” tossed around. If you’re not familiar with grading, you could easily overpay or pass up a gem just because it has a scuffed label. That’s where a solid Game Condition Grading Guide for Beginners comes in handy. Learning how to evaluate the condition of a game can save you money, help you make smarter trades, and protect you from bad deals.
Grading doesn’t have to be intimidating or overly complicated. With a little attention to detail and some consistent standards, you can get pretty good at judging a game’s worth and state quickly.
Why Condition Matters in Retro Game Collecting
Condition affects both the value and collectability of a game. A loose, scratched disc might still play, but it won’t fetch the same price, or feel as rewarding to display, as a mint, complete copy. For many collectors, condition isn’t just about appearance. It also reflects how well a game was cared for over the years.
I’ve come across two copies of the same game at a flea market, one scratched to the point of skipping and missing its case, the other pristine and complete, and watched the prices differ by triple digits. Whether you’re collecting for display, play, or investment, grading helps set expectations and standardizes comparisons.
Loose vs. CIB vs. Sealed
One of the most common distinctions you’ll encounter before even getting into specific condition terms is the format the game comes in. These categories influence how you approach grading:
Loose: This usually means just the cartridge or disc, with no box or manual. Most NES, SNES, N64, and Genesis games on the secondhand market fall into this category. Discs without their original case also fall under this.
CIB (Complete in Box): Includes the game, the original box, and manual. For serious collectors, this is the ideal state short of a sealed game. CIB games hold more value and are graded more stringently because there are more elements to evaluate.
Sealed: Never opened and often still in shrink wrap or security seals. These are the holy grails for some collectors. But with high value comes the risk of fakes, reseals, and counterfeits, so grading becomes even more important.
Each of these categories has its own grading nuances, and a good Game Condition Grading Guide for Beginners should walk you through them all.
Grading Terms and What They Really Mean
The grading scale used by most collectors and shops is pretty consistent, though some words get used loosely. Here’s how I interpret the major condition terms:
Mint (M)
A mint game looks like it just came off the shelf. No wear, no scratches, perfect label, pristine box, uncracked plastic, clean manual, everything is spotless. These are hard to come by unless they’ve been kept in controlled environments or are newly sealed.
Even loose cartridges can be mint if the label is flawless and the contacts are shiny and clean. I rarely see true mint condition items at yard sales, but you’d be surprised what turns up in old storage bins.
Near Mint (NM)
Almost perfect, but maybe a tiny ding on the label or the manual has a small crease. Near mint is a realistic goal for most collectors. If you’re hunting for display-worthy games but don’t want to pay sealed prices, NM is the sweet spot.
Discs in near mint condition have only minor scuffs that don’t affect gameplay. Boxes might have light shelf wear but no tears or dents.
Very Good (VG)
This is where wear becomes more noticeable. Labels might have small scratches, and manuals may show folding or minor rips. A VG cartridge still plays fine, and CIB games might have slight tears in the box corners or faint sticker residue.
I often buy in VG condition if I’m more interested in playing than displaying. Many retro games live in this category, especially if they’ve changed hands a few times.
Good (G)
A game in good condition may have visible flaws, worn labels, cracks in the case, significant creasing in the manual, but it still functions. For a collector focused on gameplay over display, good condition can be acceptable. But prices should reflect the wear.
Discs in good condition might require resurfacing or careful cleaning. Always test these before paying premium prices.
Fair (F)
These games show major wear. The label could be torn, the manual might be missing or falling apart, and the box could be barely holding together. A fair game still works, but it’s seen better days.
This is usually the realm of bargain bins and bulk lots. I’ve picked up fair condition games just to test hardware or play without worrying about value. If you’re handy with restoration, these can be fixer-uppers.
Poor (P)
Badly damaged, often non-working, heavily scratched discs, torn or water-damaged labels, and boxes beyond repair. These are generally avoided unless you’re harvesting parts or trying to restore a beloved childhood title.
A true Game Condition Grading Guide for Beginners wouldn’t recommend building a collection with poor-condition games unless they’re rare or sentimental.
What to Look for on Cartridges
Cartridge-based games from the NES, SNES, Genesis, N64, and similar systems have specific elements worth checking:
- Label: This is where condition usually shows first. Faded colors, rips, writing, or peeling all bring down the grade. Stickers from rental stores or owners are common but not always desired.
- Pins/Contacts: Flip the cartridge over and inspect the contacts. Corrosion or grime can sometimes be cleaned, but bent or broken pins are a red flag.
- Shell: Look for cracks, discoloration, or weird smells (musty or smoky odors are hard to remove). Some games yellow over time, especially on the SNES, due to chemical degradation. This affects visual appeal but not necessarily function.
What to Look for on Discs
Disc-based systems like the PlayStation, Dreamcast, GameCube, and Xbox bring their own grading challenges. Discs are fragile, and even small scratches can cause skipping or unreadable sections.
- Scratches: Minor scuffs are okay in VG or NM condition. Deep scratches, especially in circular patterns, are a red flag. Use a soft light source to check for damage.
- Bottom Color: Some systems used colored bottoms (e.g., blue for PS2 or purple for GameCube). Discoloration can signal issues.
- Playability: Always test if possible. A clean-looking disc that won’t boot is still useless, regardless of how pretty it looks.
- Case and Manual: Cracked or replaced jewel cases are common. Make sure manuals are present, clean, and untorn if you're going for a higher grade.
Evaluating Boxes and Manuals
For complete-in-box games, the box condition matters just as much as the game itself.
- Box Wear: Light edge wear is common in VG condition. Heavy crushing, tears, or mold damage lowers the grade significantly.
- Tabs and Inserts: Especially on SNES and N64 games, cardboard inserts matter. A CIB without the tray is technically incomplete.
- Manuals: Check for writing, folds, tears, and missing pages. A missing manual drops a CIB to a “box and game only” status.
- Seals and Stickers: Original price tags, stickers, or security seals can sometimes increase value, but only if they're from reputable retailers and well-preserved.
Tools I Use for Grading
Being prepared makes grading more accurate. I always carry:
- A soft cloth to gently wipe off dust or grime.
- A LED flashlight or use my phone’s light to inspect small scratches.
- A plastic case or bag to transport anything delicate.
- A testing setup at home with multiple consoles to ensure compatibility and function.
- A magnifying lens for verifying label details, especially on expensive carts prone to reproduction.
Knowing When to Grade Strictly
If you’re just collecting to play and enjoy, don’t stress too much about slight label wear or creased boxes. But if you plan to resell or eventually trade, stricter grading pays off. Collectors notice every nick and missing page.
Using the Game Condition Grading Guide for Beginners consistently will help build your reputation as a knowledgeable collector. Sellers, traders, and buyers will appreciate clear, honest evaluations. It also helps you track your collection’s quality over time.
Avoiding Misleading Listings
Online sellers don’t always grade accurately. I’ve seen “mint” listings with sun-faded labels and “CIB” games that were missing manuals. Always ask for detailed photos, and if possible, video of the game booting.
If a seller won’t show you the cartridge pins or disc bottom, that’s a red flag. Protect yourself by learning the red flags of overgrading and sticking to sellers with good reputations.
Creating Your Own Collection Grading Notes
I keep a spreadsheet with each game in my collection and a condition note. That helps me know which games I want to upgrade later. For instance, I might be fine owning a “good” copy of Super Mario 64 now, but if I find a boxed version in near mint shape down the line, I’ll know to grab it.
Some collectors use apps to track their games and grade, but a simple document or checklist works just as well.
Final Thoughts
Using a consistent grading system is crucial to growing a retro game collection that holds its value and gives you satisfaction. This Game Condition Grading Guide for Beginners is designed to take out the guesswork and help you evaluate everything from a scratched disc to a sealed treasure.
Condition grading becomes second nature with practice. The more you inspect, buy, and trade, the sharper your instincts become. Over time, you’ll develop an eye for what’s a good deal, what’s worth fixing, and what should be avoided altogether. Whether you’re collecting for nostalgia, investment, or the thrill of the hunt, grading is your toolkit for making smarter choices.