In retro game collecting, few things feel better than getting your hands on a game that still has everything intact. Those complete-in-box (CIB) titles carry a level of nostalgia and value that loose cartridges simply can’t match. But figuring out how to tell if a game is CIB isn’t always as straightforward as it seems. I’ve come across plenty of listings or yard sale finds labeled “CIB,” only to discover later that a manual was missing, the box was a reproduction, or some essential insert wasn’t included. Learning how to spot the real thing can save time, money, and frustration.

Whether you’re buying, selling, or just trying to verify your own collection, knowing what makes a game truly complete is an essential skill for any collector. In this guide, I’ll walk through what to look for across different systems, what counts as CIB, how to identify fakes, and what to do when you’re not sure if a game is the real deal.

What Does CIB Actually Mean?

CIB stands for Complete in Box, and it’s more than just the game and a container. At its core, it refers to a game that comes with all of its original components as sold at retail. That usually includes:

  • The game (cartridge or disc)
  • The original box (not a replacement or reproduction)
  • The original instruction manual
  • Any inserts or paperwork (warranty cards, promotional material, maps, etc.)
  • The inner tray or packaging (especially for cardboard boxes)

Some collectors stretch the definition, but if you want to be accurate, a game is only truly CIB when it contains every piece that came with it at launch. And that’s where things get tricky, because those contents can vary from one title or region to another.

How to Verify the Original Box

One of the most important pieces in determining how to tell if a game is CIB is the box itself. For cartridge-based systems like NES, SNES, and Genesis, boxes were often made of cardboard, making them prone to damage, tearing, and reproduction.

I always start by checking the printing quality. Original boxes have vibrant colors, sharp text, and clear logos. Repro boxes often look fuzzy or are printed on glossy cardstock that doesn’t match the texture of the original.

Also, look for licensing information, seals of quality, and regional markers. If a Super Nintendo game doesn’t have the “Only For” label where it should be, that’s a red flag. For Genesis titles, Sega often used plastic clamshells, which are harder to fake, but check for original stickers, embossed logos, and hinge quality.

For disc-based games (PS1, PS2, GameCube, etc.), original cases often have artwork inserts with spine labels and printed reverse covers. If you pop open the case and there’s no art on the inside flap or the manual doesn’t match the artwork, it might not be complete.

The Instruction Manual: Not Optional

If there’s one thing sellers tend to leave out or overlook, it’s the manual. Manuals are essential to CIB status. I’ve seen plenty of listings marked “CIB” that included the game and box but were missing the manual entirely.

Manuals should match the game and region. The easiest way to confirm this is to look at the code on the manual’s spine or back page, it should match the product code found on the box and game. If you’re dealing with an NES game, make sure the manual reflects the same branding, like “Nintendo Entertainment System” and matches in terms of color scheme and formatting.

Also check for condition. A manual that’s been soaked, ripped, or marked up with pen doesn’t necessarily disqualify it from being CIB, but it does affect the value and authenticity.

Inserts, Maps, and Extras

Some games came with more than just a manual. Posters, registration cards, ads for other games, warranty slips, and fold-out maps are all common extras. Whether or not these are required for a game to be considered CIB depends on the title.

For example, The Legend of Zelda: A Link to the Past on SNES came with a map and hint booklet in many versions. Without those, it’s not truly CIB. Meanwhile, a Sega Genesis sports title might only need the cartridge, clamshell case, and manual.

The trick is to research what each individual game originally included. Sites like MobyGames, GameFAQs, or dedicated collector forums often list the original contents. I’ve built a spreadsheet for my collection where I note what inserts came with each title so I can double-check when I’m buying or trading.

Matching Product Codes

One of the most overlooked tools for determining how to tell if a game is CIB is the product code. Most publishers printed codes on the game, box, and manual. For a game to be CIB, all these codes should match.

Take a PlayStation game like Final Fantasy VII, for example. The discs, case insert, and manual should all have the same serial number, like “SLUS-00664.” If one of those elements has a different number, or none at all, it could be from a different region or a replacement, which affects whether it counts as CIB.

With Nintendo games, the label code on the cartridge will often read something like “SNS-ZL-USA.” The manual and box should match that region and release code. If they don’t, you might be dealing with a Frankenstein copy that someone pieced together from multiple sources.

Check for Original Packaging Materials

Cardboard-based games often included internal trays or cardboard inserts that helped hold the game and manual in place. These are essential when figuring out how to tell if a game is CIB. A game with the outer box but no insert might still be playable and attractive, but it’s not technically complete.

For NES and SNES titles, that usually means a white cardboard tray. For N64 games, the inner tray was more fitted to the cartridge. Game Boy and GBA boxes also came with specific inserts that ensured the cart didn’t rattle around inside.

The original insert not only helps define CIB status, it also protects the contents over time. Replacement inserts rarely match the fit or look of the originals.

Spotting Reproductions and Fakes

The retro market is full of reproductions. Some are marked as such, while others are deliberately made to pass as originals. One of the most important parts of learning how to tell if a game is CIB is being able to identify fake boxes, manuals, or even cartridges.

Reproduction boxes often look too clean or too glossy. The material feels off, and the folds might not match authentic retail construction. Sometimes you’ll spot odd fonts, misspelled words, or logos that are too large or poorly placed.

Manuals can also be reproduced. These fakes are usually printed on different paper stock, with low-resolution images or blurry text. Holding a real and fake manual side-by-side usually makes the differences obvious.

Repro carts can sometimes be harder to spot. Open up the cartridge with a proper security bit if possible and check the PCB (printed circuit board). Authentic boards have manufacturer markings, while fakes often have generic chips or inconsistent soldering.

Region-Specific Packaging Variations

Not all games are packaged the same worldwide. A game that is CIB in Japan might not have come with a manual at all, while the US version did. European games often included multi-language manuals or dual-disc cases for different regions.

When collecting internationally, it’s important to know what the original contents were for that specific region. Just because a Japanese Famicom game doesn’t have a manual doesn’t mean it’s incomplete, it may never have included one to begin with.

Double-check box codes, spine text, and publisher details to make sure all parts of the package belong together. I once saw a boxed PAL game with a US NTSC cartridge inside, nice looking, but definitely not a CIB unit.

Ask for Detailed Photos Before Buying

Anytime I’m shopping online, whether it’s from a marketplace, auction site, or collector group, I ask for detailed photos of the front, back, and inside of the package. Close-ups of the label, manual, product codes, and inserts help me verify authenticity.

If a seller won’t provide those images, I move on. It’s too easy to misrepresent a game as CIB when it’s missing crucial parts. A genuine seller will understand and be happy to show what they’re offering.

Don’t rely on descriptions alone. The phrase “CIB” has been watered down by sellers who don’t understand what it truly means. Use your own eyes, and compare with reference images online if you’re unsure.

Building a Checklist for CIB Verification

To keep myself organized, I’ve built a checklist that I use whenever I come across a game I want to verify. It includes:

  • Game (tested and working)
  • Original box (correct label, quality printing, no repros)
  • Instruction manual (correct region and code)
  • All original inserts or extras
  • Matching product codes across all components
  • Inner packaging or tray
  • Authenticity signs (no fakes or repros)

Having this list saved on my phone or printed out helps me make quick decisions at conventions, flea markets, and garage sales.

Final Thoughts

Collecting complete games is one of the most satisfying aspects of retro gaming. That feeling of holding a box with all its original components, manuals, maps, art, and all, is hard to beat. But if you don’t know how to tell if a game is CIB, it’s easy to get fooled by incomplete packages or convincing reproductions.

By paying attention to the details, like matching codes, insert quality, and original packaging, you’ll sharpen your collector’s eye and avoid costly mistakes. The more you inspect, compare, and handle different games, the better you’ll get at spotting what’s legit and what’s missing.

Whether you’re chasing down a childhood favorite or building a full-library shelf, knowing how to tell if a game is CIB adds depth, knowledge, and value to every addition in your collection.